Modern and creative, cooked without preconceived concepts and changing every week, served in fixed lunch and dinner sittings rather than straight through the afternoon. Cocktails are part of the offer.

After more than 35 years each in the restaurant trade, Alberto Chicote and Inmaculada Núñez opened Omeraki as their most personal project, to cook without limits or preconceived concepts and change the offer every week. The cooking rests on absolute respect for the product, following the rhythm of nature, so dishes can change week to week or even day to day. It is recommended in the Michelin Guide and holds one Repsol Sol.

There are three tasting menus: Homenaje at €110, Festival at €89 and a shorter Síntesis at €75, served Wednesday to Friday. Cocktails are part of the offer too.

The menus change with the market and the chef's mood, but some dishes have stuck. A meal tends to open with bread toasted on the robata, served with a codium seaweed butter and a mortar-pounded majado of five kinds of garlic, then a run of snacks such as a quiche-foam tartlet with cured Ibérico bacon, a scallop with nuoc cham dressing, a ham croquette and the marinated anchovy on Thai mango, by now a house classic.

The fried artichoke with Ibérico sauce and liquid burrata has become the dish regulars ask for every time. Chicote often puts a fish of the day with Japanese curry on the menu, and the rice-pudding dorayaki, with orange, lemon and cinnamon, is the dessert the house is known for, alongside a roast orange scented like crêpe suzette. The wine list favours small producers at contained prices.

Omeraki fills almost 700 square metres, where outside and inside connect through a gastronomic library of more than 1,400 books on cooking, wine and food that Chicote has collected over 40 years, which guests can consult. Past a curtain of aluminium links drawn as a great swirl, the room opens up with high ceilings and two open kitchens, one in the middle of the room and one fully glazed at the end with a wide pass.

The space, designed by Enrique Barrera of the studio In Design We Trust, hides behind a modest entrance on Duque de Sesto and a heavy door of charred wood: it's an early-20th-century industrial building in the heart of the block. The library is a parametric paulownia-wood unit that doubles as a place to sit and wait with a glass of wine, and at the end of that tunnel it turns into the bar's shelving, where a table replaces the traditional counter and the bartender mixes drinks beside the guest. Some 2,400 cubes of different sizes and colours cover the ceiling and walls.

Sustainability runs through the building: aerothermal energy with underfloor heating and cooling, glass skylights with photovoltaic panels that power the extractor hoods, tables made from pine beams from Las Cariátides, a 1910 building in Zamora, recycled ceramics, cutlery rests cut from volcanic stone from La Palma's Cumbre Vieja, toilets that reuse hand-washing water, ozone cleaning and food waste turned into compost for suppliers' crops.

Omeraki serves lunch Wednesday to Sunday from 13:30 to 15:30 and dinner Wednesday to Saturday from 20:30 to 22:30, and is closed on Monday and Tuesday. Book online through its site or call +34 910 880 326. The entrance, restroom and seating are wheelchair accessible.