Wild mushrooms first, cooked plainly so the raw material leads. The varieties follow the calendar and the regions they come from, with marzuelos, setas de cardo, gurumelos, lengua de vaca, senderuelas and trompetas de los muertos among those that pass through. Meats and cheeses fill the rest of the carta.

The core of the menu is a list of setas dishes: a seasonal mix with egg yolk, or one chosen variety with yolk; boletus with foie or with Blue Stilton; tricholomas or níscalos with lamb sweetbreads; a scramble of cantharellus with free-range eggs and black truffle; setas de cardo with gulas and a touch of cayenne; enoki with foie; trompetas de los muertos with ham and egg; and colmenillas with Stilton, port and red onion. Two dishes are strictly seasonal: Amanita caesarea, sautéed with yolk or as a carpaccio in autumn, and a spoonable scramble of perretxikos in spring. There's also a morel risotto with Parmigiano crisp and black truffle.

Starters run from courgette flowers with Gorgonzola and truffle to artichokes with cecina crisps, Santoña anchovies, rock octopus with alioli, scallops in curry and mango, and red prawns from Garrucha. From the grill come a 450-gram lomo alto of Friesian beef, a Simmental chop aged 40 days, beef tenderloin and suckling lamb chops; cheeses include cured sheep's cheese with quince and grilled Majorero with onion jam. The wine list is long, with Champagne and cava, and sweet wines such as Tokaji and an ice cider to finish.

Only the restaurant at Gravina 27 takes reservations; the taberna at 19 works first come, first served. Both open Tuesday to Saturday from 13:00 to 16:30 and 20:00 to 23:30, and on Sunday for lunch only. They're closed on Monday and close for holidays in August. At the restaurant, children are welcome and there's a terrace in summer.