The kitchen works from its own vegetable garden and small producers nationwide, respecting each ingredient with careful technique. Two tasting menus run the show, the 13-course Menú Clásicos and the 16-course Menú Temporada, the latter adding red prawns from Palamós and young goat with aged rice. Elsewhere: cochinillo with croqueta, tomato with goat cheese, smoked sturgeon with caviar, duck with wild mushrooms, closing with wild strawberries, single-origin cacao and Spanish nuts.

CEBO is the restaurant of Hotel Urban, the Derby Hotels Collection property on Carrera de San Jerónimo. In its first era it was led by chef Aurelio Morales and held a Michelin star, and when that phase ended in 2022, after seven years, the hotel handed the kitchen to Javier Sanz and Juan Sahuquillo of the Albacete group Cañitas Maite.

The new CEBO opened on 18 October 2022, and within its first year it regained the star, in the Michelin Guide 2024. It also holds two Repsol Soles.

When the Michelin star came back in November 2023, Sanz and Sahuquillo were 26. The menus have grown with the restaurant: CEBO reopened with an 11-course menu at €110 and a 14-course menu at €135, moved to 10 and 17 courses at €130 and €185 by the time of the star, and today runs 13 and 16 courses at €190 and €245.

Sanz and Sahuquillo were both born in 1997 in Casas-Ibáñez, in the province of Albacete, where their Cañitas Maite group runs Cañitas Maite and Oba-. Madrid Fusión named them its Revelation Chefs in 2021, the same year their ham croquette, made with sheep's milk butter and Joselito ham, won the title of best croquette in the world there. That croquette is on both CEBO menus.

When CEBO reopened, the pair said they would travel weekly from Albacete to run both kitchens, with Borja García named as head cook in Madrid. Their stated approach is product and simplicity: few ingredients, precise technique and a set of small producers chosen for what is best in each season.

The house motto is three words, Producto, Esencia, Sencillez: product, essence, simplicity. In practice that means reduced stocks, pared-back sauces and combinations of land and sea that look simple on the plate and aren't.

CEBO serves only tasting menus, and both change with the seasons. Menú Clásicos runs to 13 courses for €190, and Menú Temporada to 16 courses for €245, both with VAT included and drinks charged separately.

The shared backbone runs from Santoña anchovy in three versions, guinea fowl with truffle and the Cañitas croquette through bottled tomato with goat's milk, razor clam, fine clam with Motril shrimp, smoked sturgeon with Oscietra caviar, squid with Iberian rancio wine, turbot and semi-wild duck with Pyrenean morels. Menú Temporada is served in three acts and adds button mushroom with toasted butter, Palamós red prawn and young goat with aged rice. Both finish with wild strawberries and Madagascar vanilla, single-origin cacao and Spanish nuts with classic pastries.

The bread is part of the menu rather than an afterthought: a long-fermented brioche baked in-house every day, served with artisan butter from grass-fed cows, as part of a bread selection that comes with both menus. The producers are named with pride: Joselito for the ham in the croquette, Cárnicas Lyo for beef aged in seaweed, Oscietra caviar.

Dishes that have passed through the menus since 2022 show the range: Cantabrian black grouper, aged red prawn with a sea-urchin butter puff pastry, grass-fed beef loin, line-caught squid with an Iberian rancio cream, wild blue lobster with aged Carnaroli rice, boletus glazed with wild rabbit and truffle, a stew of tendons and cocochas, and a banana ice cream finished with caviar.

After dinner, the Hotel Urban's rooftop terrace, with views across the city, is a lift ride away.

The dining room seats 22. Dinner runs Tuesday to Saturday from 20:30 to 21:30 and lunch Wednesday to Saturday from 13:30 to 14:45, and the restaurant is closed on Sunday, Monday and Tuesday lunchtime, as well as every August for the summer holidays. Book online through the reservation link on CEBO's own site or by phone. The room asks for formal dress, and sportswear, Bermuda shorts and casual open-toed shoes are not allowed.