The cooking is traditional Spanish, built on seasonal produce, with a select list of wines and spirits and attentive service in the room. Jesús Barreiro chooses the produce and keeps the menu rooted in classic flavours.

Starters to share mix Galicia and Castile: Iberian acorn-fed ham, Cantabrian anchovies, prawn carpaccio, pulpo a feira or grilled octopus on patatas revolconas, tempura aubergine with cane honey, Burgos morcilla with sherry onions, and croquetas. There's gazpacho, salmorejo and a seasonal tomato, then paellas, lobster rice and oxtail cannelloni. From the sea come grilled turbot with refrito, hake stuffed with spider crab and line-caught baby squid in pil-pil; the meats run from a knife-cut steak tartare on marrow to Arévalo-style cochinillo, a stuffed rack of lamb with its sweetbreads, stewed oxtail and a Galician rubia chuletón. The tradition section keeps callos a la madrileña, a tortilla with callos and fried squid. The wine list leans Spanish and French.