Traditional cooking brought up to date, with the product as the protagonist and nearly everything available as a ración or half ración for the middle of the table. The carta runs through Al Centro, Puro Producto, Pescados, Carnes, Tradición y Cuchara, and Postres, and it names the suppliers.

Jorge Gadea runs the kitchen, after time at La Tasquita de Enfrente and Álbora. Nacho Gadea runs the dining room; he trained in London at product-led restaurants including Hereford Road and Kensington Place, then spent two years as head chef at Askua in Valencia before coming to Madrid. The room itself is small and plain, seating about 35 at most, so the food and service carry the evening.

The steak tartare is the house's best-known dish, served on a montadito or as a full plate. From the sharing section come Valencian-style bravas cut small with alioli and a paprika-chilli oil, croquetas of oxtail with chicken and curry or of Idiazabal, an Askuabarra ensaladilla, roast bone marrow with coriander salad, and grilled sweetbreads with green beans, mustard and mint. The product list has hake cocochas grilled or battered, sold by the 100 g, a spoon of sweetbread with caviar, Rafa López's Serie Oro anchovies and smoked sardine. Skate in black butter is filleted at the table, and the meat is aged vacuno mayor from Luismi Garayar, as lomo bajo, lomo alto or the Luismi Premium chop. Callos hold up the stew side. For dessert, the caramelised torrija on Paco Roig's brioche, or hot chocolate with coca de llanda and coffee ice cream.

Askuabarra credits much of its success to its suppliers and lists them on the carta: Luismi Garayar for meat, Alberto Ferreres for cocochas, Raúl Castañeda of Cultivo for cheese, Rafa López for anchovies, Ahumados Sietemares for sardines, Pescaderías Coruñesas for fish, Gourmet Extrem for ham, and Viena La Baguette and Paco Roig for bread. The wine list runs to more than 50 references.