A steakhouse with a Peruvian soul. The beef is mainly Black Angus from Nebraska, USDA Prime from Creekstone Farms, raised without added hormones or antibiotics, plus 60-day aged Galician ox chuletón and Japanese wagyu striploin such as Kagoshima A5, priced by weight. The cuts are brought to the table in a display trolley so you can choose. The Peruvian side runs through the starters: crisp sweetbreads with rocoto honey and ginger, an ají amarillo empanada filled with ají de gallina, and torreznos with Andean tuber purée and rocoto chimichurri.

For anyone not having steak there's salt cod al pil pil with pea and mint purée, pasta with confit portobellos and vegetable demi-glace, lobster with short pasta, cheese sauce and peperoncino oil, confit duck leg, and ox heart marinated in ají, as well as a Black Angus skirt and lobster surf and turf with béarnaise. Desserts end on a flourish of fire, like a coffee and rum cream with namelaka and a syrup-soaked dacquoise.

Light comes indirectly from hundreds of quartz crystals by the artisans at Amaminerali, the thread running through spaces named after Lima neighbourhoods: Salón Barranco, Barra de San Isidro, Salón Chacarilla. Paintings by Miguel Ángel Campano hang on the walls and over the staircase, and the effect is closer to a private club than a classic grill room. A lit wine cave fills one end of the dining room, holding a list of about 300 references from Spain, Italy and France ordered by region, with large formats and a private selection, a serious by-the-glass list, and signature cocktails.