Escabeches are the house language, a nod to the flavours of López's childhood: burnt leek, bonito with pickled tomato, skate in a butter escabeche with capers, pig's trotter and snout with chickpeas and piparras. Casquería gets star treatment too, with a tasting of offal charcuterie such as ear, tongue and jowl served as cold cuts. The confit-then-fried quail, inspired by one eaten with a manzanilla at Casa Ruperto in Seville, has been the emblem since day one. The current carta adds a smoked sardine toast with miso, a Oléron oyster, pork rillettes, revolconas with kimchi, mouflon loin with chickpea purée, a cheek brioche with PX and steamed sea bass with leche de tigre for two, with walnut tart, cream flan and fermented strawberries with goat's-milk tres leches to finish.

Each day there's a list of smaller starters and larger mains, and diners choose their dishes from it when the order is taken. The menus differ only in size, and everyone at the table can pick a different one: Base, three starters, €37; Bruto, three starters and a main, €51; Base Especial, five starters, €53; and Bruto Especial, five starters and a main, €66, served until 15:00 at lunch and 22:00 at dinner. Every menu includes bread, an aperitif, dessert and VAT. On weekday evenings from 18:00 to 21:00 you can also order from the carta.

The room follows the brutalist brief: a glass front in black aluminium, a wall of concrete blocks set in a geometric pattern, smooth concrete walls, high ceilings, a big zinc bar, a large round table for sharing and wooden tables for two and four. The wine is chosen by walking up to the glass-fronted cabinets rather than reading a list, with Spanish, French and Portuguese whites, Galician godello and albariño, flor-aged and orange wines, Canary Islands bottles, sherries by the glass and reds from tempranillo and mencía to bobal and Morgon. In summer the bar has run a 'campamento de verano' of themed wine nights.