A single eight-course tasting menu, cooked fresh each day, that blends Peruvian technique and Asian flavours: ceviches and tiraditos, chifa dumplings and bao, and slow-cooked, smoked meats, with the option of adding one of the kitchen's extras. The hot mussel ceviche is the house classic.

Martínez Foronda has spent more than half his life in kitchens. His early Madrid years, with Darío Barrio and then Andrés Madrigal, led to a stage with the Roca brothers in Girona, but it was Lima that planted the seed of Tripea. At Malabar he focused on Amazonian cooking under Pedro Miguel Schiaffino; at Maido, Mitsuharu Tsumura's world-famous Nikkei restaurant, he rounded out the experience. Back home he kept following Peruvian cooking at Nikkei 225 and Kena with Luis Arévalo, with a two-year stint in between as head chef of Nakeima, before opening Tripea in 2017.

Tripea serves one tasting menu of eight passes at €60, with extras you can add. The current run starts with a vegetable plate of confit and fried artichoke with peanut sauce, huacatay béarnaise, cecina, pickled red onion, sansho pepper and lime. The cevichería section brings a tuna 'carretillero' ceviche in an acevichado gazpachuelo with squid chicharrón and roasted sweet potato, griddled octopus with Parmesan tiger's milk, Thai basil pesto and botija olives, and 'el clásico de Tripea', a hot wok-cooked mussel ceviche with ají amarillo tiger's milk, noodles and Lapsang Souchong black tea.

The chifa dumpling course pairs a siu mai of pork belly and jowl with a passion-fruit kam lu sauce and a steamed house bao of lomo saltado with rocoto cream and a fried quail egg. Then comes 'Humo', beef cheek braised and smoked in bay leaf with a tom yum reduction, roasted celeriac purée and pear hoisin, and dessert is a coconut rice pudding with chicha morada, blueberries, Lotus biscuit and candied kumquat.

The wine list is built on small producers, with natural wines, sparkling and fortified wines chosen to connect with the food.

Tripea serves one sitting at lunch, at 14:30, and one at dinner, at 21:30, and is closed on Sunday and Monday. Reservations for the whole month open online on the first day of each month at 12:00, and you can secure a table for the following month by paying in advance and registering by email at least a day before the month ends; if it's full, join the waiting list, as cancellations are common. Tables must be reconfirmed at least 12 hours ahead. Because there's a single menu and no allergen-free work area, Tripea can't offer vegetarian, lactose-free, nut-free or coeliac versions, though it can adjust for allergies to condiments.