Seafood first, served mostly raw, with ideas from Japan, Peru, Mexico, the Philippines, Korea and Thailand. The carta changes twice a year, and two new specials come in every month to follow the season. Start with the croqueta enchupetada, topped with red-prawn tartare, Japanese mayonnaise and huacatay, and the bluefin tuna tartlet with miso-yuzu emulsion and a Korean gochugaru vinaigrette. Oysters (Cap Ferret no. 2, or Poget's La Spéciale Normandie) come natural or with four dressings: ponzu, aguachile with tomatillo and yuzu, mango and habanero, or a Thai mignonette.

The ceviches go from a classic corvina with leche de tigre and ají amarillo to a carretillero of octopus, corvina and fried baby squid with rocoto leche de tigre, and 'El 7 de Kuoco', borrowed from the older restaurant. The hiramasa tartare comes with horseradish and habanero leche de tigre, green apple, Chinese chives, smoked oil, a lychee and coconut sorbet, jalapeño and coriander oil. Tiraditos have included corvina and gambón with smoked ají amarillo, chalaca and flame-charred avocado, and scallops with a Mexican gazpachuelo. There's a sea urchin with spring-onion and habanero aguachile, a softshell crab taco with chipotle and yuzu, and crisp tiger-prawn flautas with black-garlic emulsion and a cream made from their heads.

The hot side is short: octopus with Thai pesto and charred chimichurri, a butterflied sea bass zarandeado in Mexican chilli adobo with green mango, and beef rib smoked and braised in massaman curry with crisp potatoes, meant for sharing; order tortillas alongside to turn it into tacos. Chilaquiles with Singapore chilli-crab sauce and Galician spider crab arrived with a later carta. Desserts are a dulce de leche flan with cacao nib crunch, a Thai tres leches with coconut ice cream and a Tom Kha panna cotta.

It calls itself a restless cellar. One wall of the stall is lined with the bottles on offer. The list is heavy on grower Champagne and small producers, from Albariño and Palomino to Burgundy, Jura, Alsace and German Riesling, with orange wines too. The team says that if it had to pick one drink for the rest of its life, it would be Champagne, and a Danish sparkling tea stands in for bubbles without alcohol. Sit at the bar to watch the kitchen at work; there are tables too, and it fills up, even on a Tuesday.