Dishes have included a wonton of beef cheek with shiitake sauce and cured quail yolk, dim sum built on ropa vieja with a chuleta bearnaise, classic sui mai with pork jowl, a 'bunwich' stuffing a Chinese bun with Galician chorizo and quail egg, nigiri topped with Iberian ham and shrimp, and butterfish tataki in a miso marinade.

Nakeima is an Asian fusion dumpling bar on Calle Meléndez Valdés, in Gaztambide, founded in October 2013 by chef Gonzalo García and Luis Gómez-Bua after they worked together at Nikkei 225. García calls it free-style Asian food, Asian in format with local flavours, and they called it a dumpling bar from the start because it runs on a bar licence, like a Japanese izakaya built around the counter and the instant feedback it gives. It runs under a bar licence, with bar seating and upbeat music, and has become one of the cult spots on the Madrid food scene. It holds one Repsol Sol. It opened with just seven stools and high tables and a blackboard of what they had that day, and within three months had queues at opening time without a reservation book or any publicity. The same team has since opened Haranita.

There is no fixed menu and no advance information: each course arrives as a surprise, and you can stop the sequence whenever you've had enough. Dishes have included a beef-cheek wonton with shiitake sauce and cured quail yolk, dim sum of ropa vieja with a chuleta béarnaise, classic siu mai with pork jowl, a 'bunwich' of Chinese bun with Galician chorizo and quail egg, nigiri topped with Ibérico ham and prawn, and butterfish tataki in miso, as well as ramen, temaki and a baby-squid flan. On a given day the kitchen works through 20 to 25 dishes, served to everyone seated from small bites up to slightly bigger plates, and the run is tailored to each diner's appetite and budget. Dishes that have become calling cards include nigiri with Ibérico toppings, such as garlic prawn or pork belly with tomato, black bao with braised squid, dim sum with spider-crab curry and a wonton of kidneys in sherry.

Nakeima seats only 20 at each service, with single sittings Tuesday to Saturday: lunch at 14:00 and dinner at 21:00. It does not take reservations; tables go in order of arrival, with a list taken at the door about half an hour before opening, around 13:30 and 20:30, until the room is full, and a queue often forms before that. Expect roughly €70 to €80 per person. Contact is by phone on +34 689 991 278.