Traditional Madrid tavern cooking, ingredient-led and good value: bacalao Rosell, callos a la madrileña, homemade croquetas, boquerones en vinagre and a long list of tostas, with a cocido madrileño to order for groups.

The front of the building is the thing to look at before you go in. It carries a tiled advertising mosaic for Valdepeñas wine in Talavera azulejos, the kind of decoration that marked Madrid's bodegas at the turn of the 20th century. The tiles were painted in the early 1900s by Alfonso Romero Mesa, the Seville painter whose work also covers the retablos at the Las Ventas bullring and the facade of Villa Rosa, and the restaurant describes the frontage as a monument to that era of Madrid's street tilework.

The wine list runs to more than 200 references, from obscure Spanish denominations to the popular ones, with a by-the-glass selection on the blackboards that changes every month and a sommelier on hand to advise; Manolo Rosell is the house's wine expert. Prices stay affordable and the service is taken seriously, with good glassware and bottles at the right temperature. The kitchen is home-style and generous with raciones: up to seven cheeses, the tortilla de patatas, croquetas of jamón, cabrales or bacalao, and homemade desserts. Bacalao comes several ways (brandada, croquetas, battered, baked with alioli or with vegetables), alongside revueltos, patatas de la abuela with egg and ham, and a section given over to foie, from seared fresh foie to a duck micuit with PX. In summer, salmorejo and terrace plates take over.

Next door, De Rosell Al Cielo is the taberna's annex: the same service in a slightly different room, used for cocktail-style events. Enquiries go through the restaurant's email.