Home-style Spanish cooking with the odd international nod, what the family calls a Madrid 'spanglish': deep-Seville flavours crossed with something more bohemian and English.

The English side shows in small ways: ham croquetas come with 'Brian sauce', there's a roast beef with mash, broccoli and horseradish, and the desserts include apple crumble and a chocolate and mint tart. The Andalusian side runs through salmorejo, a beetroot gazpacho with prawn, a sardine espeto with zorongollo, and battered monkfish and hake cocochas a la andaluza. Elsewhere there are Santoña anchovies, taramasalata on pan de cristal, a txangurro ensaladilla, confit leeks with romesco, pisto with chopitos and egg, rabbit chops al ajillo, and a couple of Asian-leaning plates such as a duck chaufa rice, a chipirón won-ton lasagne and chipirones stuffed with green curry. Meats include a crusted roast suckling pig, a 'Pollito Marrakech' with raisins and nuts, duck magret and a Guadarrama entrecôte. Starters mostly run €16 to €25, mains €20 to €45, many in half or full sizes, plus dishes of the day.

La Parra calls itself a restaurant and wine bar. House wines by the bottle start around €21, the list runs from Rueda, Rías Baixas and Bierzo whites to Rioja and Ribera reds such as Viña Ardanza, Muga, Pago de Carraovejas and Hacienda Monasterio, with Madrid wines from El Regajal and Licinia, and Champagnes from grower Pierre Gimonnet up to Ruinart Blanc de Blancs. Over the years the dining room has fed plenty of figures from Madrid's social, political and cultural life, and many of its customers are regulars.