Cocina creativa, cooked in front of you: the open kitchen and the tasting counter are the format rather than a flourish. It's one of the four Sala de Despiece rooms in Madrid, each its own address.

The 2026 carta is printed like a product spec sheet, listing each item's origin, preparation and ingredients. Vegetables come first: a Tudela artichoke confited then fried with avocado, fried piparras with smoked corn, popcorn and Gamoneu cheese, a Tudela tomato 'solomillo' in brine with fried basil, and fried potatoes with brown butter and pickled tarragon. From the sea: a tasting of conservas from Mar de Tazones, French oysters with shallot, piparra and sumac, a salpicón maritozzo with carabinero cream, a carabinero from the kamado with eel emulsion, Galician octopus with Greek muhammara, and cod tempura with pil-pil and piquillo. Meats include the 'Rolex' of confit egg yolk, pancetta, foie and truffle, a raw Ávila chuletón, an Ávila beef burger with tartare sauce and 'eggchup', sweetbreads with cream and toffee, a smoked Morón Ibérico rib, a smoked vitello tonnato, a quail rice from the kamado and Ávila sirloin. Most plates are €10 to €25, with the rice and sirloin around €36; dessert is a fig-leaf ice cream, flan, or a box of fruit.

The basement is a separate, privatisable space built for after-dinner drinking, with its own cocktail list and wines, including natural wines, poured by the glass so you can keep switching. Vending machines dispense mixed drinks to avoid queues at the bar, and the walls were left under their protective film after the metal panels arrived in the wrong shade. On Friday and Saturday nights it runs late as Subcero, from 23:00 to 05:00, with electronic music.