Everything, from doughs, breads and stocks to vegetables, fish and meat, passes through the wood fire at some point, cooked on the embers, on the iron or in the wood oven. The ten-pass tasting menu, at €120, is a biographical journey through Bustos's childhood, the Argentine fire tradition, wine and his arrival in Europe, adapted to each table; the carta averages about €80 a head without drinks. Dishes that have become signatures include a corvina tiradito with an Italian cheese sauce, leeks with a hay emulsion, tuna morrillo braised like meat, and duck with two sauces.

Meals open with a table of breads and snacks: a house snack, a snack of the day, spiced butter, fresh-baked breads and a selection of olive oils. Starters are grouped by fire. Over direct fire come roast leeks with hay emulsion, Huelva red prawn with Jerusalem artichoke, line-caught baby squid with chorizo cream, green beans with Ibérico ham, crisp sweetbreads on the iron and lamb braised in vine leaves. Over gentle fire, aubergine with Galmesano cheese and pan-seared foie with spiced quince. Without fire, raw Galician fish with radishes and red grapes, tuna with green grapes and goat's cheese, and Japanese A5 Wagyu cecina with hummus. The meats of the world include Argentine Wagyu, Argentine Black Angus ojo de bife with milcaos, a 60-day aged Spanish entrecôte, American skirt steak and Japanese A4 Wagyu rump. In autumn the carta turns to rice with boletus, ossobuco lasagne on the iron, pigeon, partridge, wild boar and venison.

The restaurant holds 80 across two floors, designed by Ibiza-based interior designer Patricia Torres, who also did Gurisa Uruguay, to feel like a lived-in home with the open kitchen in view. There's a chef's table inside the kitchen, and downstairs a room called El Club for about two dozen. The wine list runs through Argentina, Uruguay and Spain to France, Italy and the Americas, and the pairings avoid the obvious. Gurisa also hosts cooking classes with Bustos and guest dinners, such as the Mesa Atlántica with Galician beef-ager Lino Fervenza in 2026. Desserts have included Uruguayan dulce de leche rogel, flan, a pressed puff pastry with dark chocolate, and baked apples with toasted-bread ice cream.