Contemporary Spanish-Italian and ingredient-led, blending central-Italian traditions with Madrid's slow-cooked guiso.

The room, visible from the alley, holds about 35. Chandeliers, white carpet and low light play the aristocratic part, and the art undercuts it: Vincent Vee's irreverent pop portraits of David Bowie, Kate Moss, Madonna and King Charles III, and a black-and-white photograph of Anthony Bourdain swigging Champagne from the bottle. The Mesa del Duke, an imperial table for eight, is set aside for small celebrations, and there's a Beauty Room, a gender-neutral grooming lounge before the toilets, modelled on New York lounges.

The carta is short, about a dozen dishes, with bread and olive oil and a welcome from the chef at €5. Starters run €18 to €26: roast tomato cream with fried kale and mojama, green beans with salt cod, beluga lentils with red prawn and sheep's cream, a pâté de campagne terrine, black grouper cured for 48 hours with bergamot and fennel, and organic green asparagus with a vegetable pil-pil and squid. Mains run €26 to €36: aged beef, Ibérico jowl glazed with citrus and crème fraîche, homemade ricotta tortello with mint, sweetbreads and bottarga, braised mackerel, Burela hake, and rested snapper with a warm spinach gazpacho and Espelette pepper. Javi's callos, cooked slowly for 62 hours with lightly smoked venison chorizo, are a signature. Desserts are €10 to €12: a Valrhona chocolate and Scotch whisky tart, a Saint-Honoré and smoked rice pudding.

The cellar is pitched as the wines the duke found on his travels, Spanish and European labels plus bottles from the New World, chosen for how clearly they speak of their place, with a good showing of foreign wines. The kitchen's maxim, as Dávila puts it, is product first, then flavour, then balance, and technique last, in service of the rest. The average spend has been put at €55 to €65.