The kitchen opens with Scottish smoked salmon carved tableside and Asturian sea urchins grilled in their own juice, before the day's fish and a choice of starters off a hand-written menu that changes daily. Cooking leans on a wood-fired oven and on custom-built presses that extract the essence from premium fish. The Academia Madrileña de Gastronomía gave the restaurant a 2023 award for the work.

Pescaderías Coruñesas was constituted on 15 October 1911 in A Coruña, the fish business of Evaristo García and María Juliana Azpíroz, and their descendants, now the fourth generation of fishmongers, have made it one of the great names of the Madrid trade. The restaurant is their tribute to that legacy: Desde 1911 opened on 3 November 2021, in a former industrial building on Calle Vivero that once housed a workshop for electric coil pumps.

It holds one Michelin star and two Repsol Soles. It was ranked first on Opinionated About Dining's 2022 list of the best new restaurants in Europe, placed 16th in OAD's Europe Top Restaurants 2025 and 31st in 2026, and received a 2023 award from the Academia Madrileña de Gastronomía. In the 2026 Michelin Guide, Abel Valverde took the guide's Service Award.

The old workshop has been turned into a spare, Nordic-feeling room of marble, wood and metal, with no textiles to soften it, and large windows opening onto a central garden. Diners can also eat in the garden itself, and the Privado 1911, a private room for between 10 and 24 guests with views over the garden, serves the same daily menu.

There is no fixed menu. Every day the team meets and decides the dishes around the catch that has just arrived from the coast, and the result is written by hand. Diners see six starters and choose three, four, five or six of them, followed by a single fish main course, the best of the day's arrivals at Pescaderías Coruñesas, and a board of cheeses and desserts.

The four menus are priced by the number of starters: 3+1 at €190, 4+1 at €210, 5+1 at €235 and 6+1 at €270. The cooking relies on traditional techniques, above all the wood-fired oven, and on custom-built presses that extract the essence of premium fish.

Because nothing repeats from one day to the next, the best way to picture Desde 1911 is through what has recently passed across the tables. A winter 2026 lunch ran from morels in tempura with carabinero and egg yolk and kokotxa à la romaine with potato purée and grenobloise sauce to brioche with beurre blanc and caviar, a 'totem' of amberjack in three preparations (ceviche, tiradito and a flower with gazpachuelo), and a Waldorf salad with king crab.

The same meal moved on to lobster with black-garlic mayonnaise, Breton scallop with butter sauce, chard, peas and black truffle, an eel temaki in tempura, eel à la royale with kabayaki, pork jowl with caviar and champagne sauce, Brunete chickpeas with jowl and caviar, and sea bass with mushrooms and pil pil. Other days have brought French scallops, Motril shrimp with artichokes in a green garlic sauce, Carril clams a la marinera, skate in brown butter, salt cod with white beans and thistle mushrooms, lobster risotto, and a 27-kilo grouper from Cádiz roasted in the wood oven. The bread comes from the Madrid bakery Cientotreinta.

The end of the meal is built around trolleys. There are three for cheese, holding more than 60 at a time, from Reblochon and Comté to Rogue River Blue from Oregon, a 100-month Parmigiano and a house cheese made with the Cantagrullas dairy in Valladolid, curated with the cheesemaker Rubén Valbuena.

Dessert brings its own set pieces, such as a Saint-Honoré, a baba, a hazelnut soufflé with black truffle, and apple with citrus and crème fraîche, before a long petit-four trolley closes things out.

The wine list pays tribute to the great Spanish bodegas that have accompanied Pescaderías Coruñesas over the years, with verticals and old vintages of reds bought directly from the wineries, which guarantees their traceability. The international side brings champagnes, white wines and older vintages, and sommelier Sergio Otero runs the cellar.

Desde 1911 is the flagship of a family group that also runs other Madrid restaurants, among them O'Pazo, El Pescador and Filandón, and in 2021 it took over Lhardy, the historic restaurant on Carrera de San Jerónimo. What ties them together is the fish business itself: the same daily arrivals that supply the group's fishmongers set the menu here.

Desde 1911 serves lunch and dinner from Wednesday to Saturday, 13:30 to 16:00 and 20:30 to 23:00, and is closed Sunday, Monday and Tuesday. Tables are booked through the reservation page on the restaurant's own site, and the book opens months ahead and fills fast, so plan early. There's valet parking, and shorts and flip-flops aren't allowed. Gift cards are sold through the site too. The nearest metro stations are Guzmán el Bueno and Alvarado.