The menu stays short and shifts often: past plates have included corvina with mushrooms and samphire (níscalos, salicornia), and for dessert an 'STP', a sticky toffee pudding built with apple and meadowsweet. The cooking is exact rather than excessive, nothing spare and nothing missing.

Quaife moved to Spain out of curiosity about how Spanish kitchens worked, and during the pandemic the couple used the time to design their own restaurant down to the carta and the playlist. Bolboreta, butterfly in Galician, opened at the end of 2023 on Calle del Ave María, a few steps from the Mercado de Antón Martín, with no outside investors: it was paid for with their savings, and they varnished the tables and decorated the room themselves. A row of preserves greets you at the door. With only seven tables and a team of two, the aim is simple: that every guest feels at home.

The cooking is current Spanish food with details from an evolved British kitchen, built on seasonal, local produce. At first the menu ran to three snacks, three starters, three mains and three desserts, with a vegetarian option in each; within its first twelve months the restaurant had worked through five cartas, and it has since moved to a more flexible à la carte format. Quaife prefers balance of flavour to showy technique.

Dishes have included a hash brown with chorizo and egg yolk, a game-bird consommé with a quail and celeriac raviolo, salmon on ajo blanco sharpened with horseradish, and a duck leg with red cabbage and ratte potatoes, a nod to the London Sunday roast. The one dish that has never left any carta is the STP, their apple and meadowsweet take on sticky toffee pudding; a seasonal crumble with a granita, rhubarb in its time, sits alongside it. The average spend has been around €50 to €55 before drinks.