Japanese with Spanish product and luxury touches: raw fish and tartares, tempuras, makis and a long nigiri list, with caviar, truffle and wagyu appearing throughout. Warm nigiri, flambéed or griddled, are a house hallmark, from quail egg with truffle to toro flambéed with tomato.

Starters include the capumiso, a fermented-soy base with seaweed, truffle, spring onion and tofu foam (€11.30), an okonomiyaki topped with red tuna (€30.60), free-range chicken gyozas with saffron glaze and wild boar gyozas with caramelised onion, Arzúa cheese and chestnut infusion, gratinated Alaskan king crab with wasabi, grilled scallops with ume and mentaiko, and a grilled carabinero with jalapeño and manzanilla. At the top end, 'Umami en pan de cristal' layers toro tartare, sea urchin and 50 grams of Caspian Pearl caviar on crystal bread (€199).

Tempuras run from tiger prawn in a creamy spicy sauce to lobster, oyster with caviar and hake cocochas with shiso pil-pil. The tartares include tuna macerated to order with soy, olive oil, wasabi and spring onion (€37.60) and toro with caviar. There are more than a dozen makis, among them a crispy warm eel roll with brie and avocado in filo, a dragon maki, a soft-shell crab roll and a maki of Kagoshima wagyu.

The nigiri list is the heart of it. Classic pieces of tuna, salmon, butterfish with truffle, sea bass, hamachi and toro sit at about €5 to €6 each, alongside Santoña anchovy with sardine. The warm nigiri are where the house style shows: grilled eel with tare, quail egg with truffle, a red prawn cooked two ways, warm scallop with yuzu mayonnaise, flambéed turbot with coriander oil, a wagyu burger nigiri with potato, smoked Ibérico pancetta with quail egg, seared foie with raspberry and toro flambéed with tomato or with truffle. The gunkan include sea urchin, Alaskan king crab and the house '99 Sushi Bar' gunkan of urchin, toro tartare and caviar (€16).

The tasting menu is €126 per person, for the whole table and a minimum of two. It runs from the capumiso and toro tartare with caviar through tuna belly with soy and wasabi, the wild boar gyozas and the tiger-prawn tempura to a series of nigiri, flambéed salmon with lime, butterfish with truffle, a toro gunkan, warm scallop and smoked Ibérico pancetta with quail egg, then a tuna tartare temaki and a wagyu short rib in saikyo miso cooked at low temperature with roasted aubergine, before dessert and coffee.

99 Sushi Bar Hermosilla is at Calle Hermosilla 4. It's open Monday to Saturday from 13:30 to 16:00 and 20:30 to 23:30, and on Sunday for lunch from 13:30 to 16:00; it closes on public holidays. Book through the group's site or call +34 914 312 715, and book ahead, as it's hard to get a table.