Southern Italian trattoria cooking. Fresh and dried pasta (ricotta-di-bufala gnocchi with Neapolitan ragù, lombrichelli all'Amatriciana, spaghettoni carbonara, ziti alla Genovese, Capri-style ravioli and baked pasta al forno) sits alongside Neapolitan pizza, including the Diavola de León with spicy León chorizo, named Europe's best pizza by 50 Top Pizza in 2021. The brothers make everything in house except the cured meats, and import much of the produce from Italy.

Start with the house antipasto for two (€25), a seasonal spread of southern dishes, vegetables, cheeses and salumi, or the porchetta, roasted for hours with rosemary, fennel and garlic (€15), and the family parmigiana di melanzane (€16). Bread is a Neapolitan palatone made with semi-wholemeal flours. Pasta runs from €16.90 to €18.90: gnocchi of buffalo ricotta in a long-cooked ragù, thick lombrichelli all'Amatriciana with guanciale and pecorino, carbonara, ziti in a slow-cooked meat-and-onion Genovese, Capri ravioli of sheep's ricotta and marjoram, and a baked pasta al forno with tiny fried meatballs and smoked provola.

Pizzas run from a €12.90 margherita to €18.90. Beyond the classics there's the Diavola de León, the Andavo a 10 all'ora with Slow Food tomatoes and Materan sausage (limited each day), a five-cheese pizza of southern cheeses with red-pepper jam, a San Gennaro with guanciale, mortadella, ricotta and crushed taralli, and in season a borderless L'estate al Sud cooked slowly like a focaccia. Desserts are €7: tiramisù, chocolate caprese, pastiera napoletana and a Tartufo di Pizzo gelato.

The room is all green details and wood, with plants throughout, in two spaces: a bright front room and a brick-walled back room with counter seats facing the kitchen and the oven. Tables are hard to come by, so book through CoverManager from the group's site or call 912 327 508. The nearest metro stops are Tribunal and Bilbao.