Dine-in isn't the only option: the restaurant delivers through a partner called Escalope Armando.

In the 1960s, Gabino's tortillas at La Ancha on Calle Velázquez, with callos, with clams and the traditional one, became a Salamanca-district classic. Decades later the family built a whole restaurant around them on Calle de Rafael Calvo, in Almagro by the Chamberí border. It belongs to Familia La Ancha, the Redruello family's group, whose history runs back to a first family taberna in 1919 and which also runs Fismuler; the fourth generation, Nino Redruello in the kitchen and Santiago in management, cooks updated traditional food. It holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand.

Nino Redruello opened Las Tortillas de Gabino in 2005, in his twenties, and it was the project that marked the handover to the fourth generation of La Ancha. The idea came from weeks spent experimenting with his uncle at La Ancha on Calle Zorrilla, where he got hooked on the story of stewed tortillas: in post-war villages in Castilla y León, a tortilla that had dried out overnight wasn't thrown away but left in the corner of the coal stove with whatever stew was going, soaking it up for hours like a sponge. He told his brother Santi they could open a tortilla restaurant as a homage to Gabino, a cook who had helped the family a great deal, and about a month later Santi called to say he'd found the premises.

Redruello has said that if they had failed, the clients of La Ancha would have seen the kids try, close and go back to the family restaurant; it worked, and it led to La Gabinoteca in 2009 and later Fismuler, Armando and Molino de Pez. For the 20th anniversary in 2025 the kitchen brought back a different tortilla from its archive each week, such as the garlic-soup tortilla or the one with cod and porrusalda.

Every tortilla is made to order. The Velazqueña is the classic Gabino used to make, and the others come with sailor-style clams, with prawns in spicy tomato sauce, with Torta del Casar cheese, stewed with tripe, truffled, Galician-style with octopus, or with potato chips and salmorejo.

The Velazqueña is based on the recipe Gabino made at La Ancha on Calle Velázquez in the 1960s: the egg barely set, much like the tortillas of Betanzos in Galicia, with or without onion, served with alioli and bread. Some of the newer tortillas hide a lot of technique. For the cod version the kitchen makes a thin egg wafer in a pan over low heat, almost like a crêpe, fills it with cod in a little pil-pil, potato sweetened with onion and pepper, and a whipped egg-yolk foam, then folds it like a French omelette. A tortilla carbonara, born from a showcooking with an Italian chef friend, has since joined the carta.

The restaurant was refurbished in 2013 by Ping Pong Arquitectura, the studio that also designed La Gabinoteca, moving from a functional look to something more relaxed: reclaimed wood, bare bulbs as lamps, plants and brick walls painted white. The two connected dining areas look onto the kitchen, and there's a 'mesa del botellero', a table by the glassed-in wine store. At lunch it fills with business meals.

Around the tortillas, the carta runs from Romy's gazpacho, Idiazábal and Ibérico ham croquettes, marinated and fried anchovies, lemon-cured herring and sea-bream tartare to a wild-mushroom risotto, glazed bone marrow, fried artichokes with egg yolk and ham, a Russian salad with red prawn, gratin razor clams and yellowtail tiradito. Mains include hake Roman-style or grilled, glazed veal cheek, grilled baby squid, the fish of the day and grilled Ibérico presa with wild mushrooms. The wine list opens with generosos, from Fino Jarana to a 15-year Maestro Sierra oloroso.

Las Tortillas de Gabino is open Monday to Saturday, 13:30 to 16:00 and 20:30 to 23:00, and closed on Sunday. Book online through its site or call +34 913 197 505; delivery runs through Escalope Armando. The room has two connected dining areas opening onto a kitchen visible from the tables.