Northern Spanish cooking with a Cantabrian coastal lean. The classics are all here, rabas de Santander, Santoña anchovies with roast pepper, callos a la montañesa, alongside dishes brought from the group's other kitchens: Cañadío's salt-cod buñuelos and gazpacho, La Maruca's patatas bravas and lemon tart, and two dishes dated 1981, a scorpionfish pudding and a hake meunière stuffed with smoked salmon.

Cold starters include the house ensaladilla rusa, ham and foie salad with pomegranate vinaigrette, a cheese and truffle pastel and a bonito tartare; hot ones, croquetas of lacón and boiled egg, pimientos stuffed with mushrooms and prawns, hake 'trozucos' orly and a fish soup served in two stages. The menestra of semi-stewed vegetables with ham and its juices is a signature, and there are eggs 'Parada en Landa' with morcilla purée, and rices such as a dry oven rice with vegetables and wild mushrooms or black rice with cuttlefish. Fish is hake several ways (de rula, pil pil, meunière 1981, grilled) and bonito with nori; meat runs to heifer tartare, stuffed veal escalopines, boneless roast lamb with patatas panaderas and pork shank with roast-potato purée. Most mains cost €20 to €25.

Save room: three of the most-ordered dishes are desserts, above all the Cañadío cheesecake, creamy but with body on a biscuit base, made at the Santander original for more than three decades, plus the La Maruca lemon tart and the house flan. The room occupies the first floor of the Grassy building, with windows onto Gran Vía, a big square bar, tables at different heights and a round of armchairs in front of a modern fireplace for winter. The doors open early for breakfast, from 08:00 on weekdays and 09:30 at weekends, and the bar stays open until 01:00; lunch and dinner run to the kitchen hours below.