Market cooking that changes with the season and won't be pinned to one tradition. Dahir points out that the cooking of central Argentina is closely tied to Italian food, with a Galician strand too, and the pair use criollo, European and even Asian ideas on a largely French and Spanish base. The carta is short: snacks, then plates like grilled tongue with gastrique and torta frita, white asparagus with béarnaise and guanciale, pochas with clams and boletus, and handmade tagliolini with yellow tomato, carabinero and sambuca.

The grilled tongue with gastrique and torta frita has become a best seller, along with the artichoke. The pickled aubergine is a nod to Dahir's mother, who always had his favourite dish waiting when he came home, and he decided everyone should be welcomed the same way. For something more involved, there's pigeon served in two parts, breast and leg, with corn, and the tagliolini is the clearest sign of the Italian streak. Spring brought white asparagus with béarnaise and guanciale and pochas with clams and boletus, so expect the list to move with the market.

Sommelier Juan Pablo Nievas, who has worked in Relais & Châteaux houses, with Martín Berasategui and at Awasi Iguazú, keeps the list short: classic European wines, biodynamic bottles from small producers and a few one-offs chosen for discovery, from volcanic Canary and Sicilian wines to unexpected Riojas. Desserts include a flan inherited from Miguel Ángel Carretero, and there's a La Marzocco machine for specialty coffee to close the meal.

Lunch and dinner Tuesday to Saturday, 13:30 to 16:00 and 20:00 to 23:00, closed Sunday and Monday, and closed for a summer break from 1 to 25 August. Book online or call 676 66 43 72. The chefs work the room, recommend wine and adjust the menu to the day.