International market cooking on a base of seasonal produce: respect for tradition, but open to recipes from other latitudes, from the Maghreb to Korea, Peru, Mexico, Japan and Bulgaria. The carta evolves with the market week by week. The taberna side is a modern take on the traditional taberna, for anything from a well-pulled beer and a pincho to a full lunch or dinner.

To start there are gildas with anchovy, piparra and sun-dried tomato, Ibérico chorizo, cheese from the Sierra de Madrid, pickled mussels with crisps, marineras including a Mexican one with boquerón and pickled jalapeño, and croquetas of cecina and leek. Then a salmon tiradito with ají amarillo, avocado cream and black-garlic mayonnaise, a carpaccio of Ibérico presa with parmesan and mustard sorbet, burrata with pickled shiitake, a Murcian ensaladilla with Santoña anchovies, hummus with boquerones, chicken tinga and cochinita pibil tacos, and Thai vegetable spring rolls. Bigger plates include spinach-pasta cannelloni with aubergine and pesto béchamel, Extremaduran migas with a fried egg, callos a la madrileña, a creamy squid-ink rice with spring-garlic aioli, and flank steak from the Sierra de Guadarrama with patatas revolconas. Several come as half or full portions.

Desserts are made in house and run about €6.75: coffee panna cotta with hazelnut nougatine and coffee ice cream, passion-fruit parfait with red berries, sticky toffee pudding with banana ice cream, and a long-running basil sponge with candied cherry tomatoes and olive-oil sorbet. Service runs without a break from 12:00 to close, Tuesday to Saturday, which suits long lunches, and the space takes private events for up to 80, standing or seated, with menus built to your budget and dietary needs.