Producto-driven traditional Spanish cooking, served in half or full portions, from jamón ibérico and croquetas to salmorejo. The cellar runs to roughly 250 references, with particular depth in champagne and Burgundy.

Laredo began on 13 August 1993, in a summer of drought, crisis and high interest rates, when Paquita, the Laredos' mother, lit the stoves and David and Miguel pulled the first beers and served the first raciones in a tiny place with a few pavement tables. From the start the bet was quality produce, which meant being at Mercamadrid at five in the morning to choose the best, and its red and white prawns were soon known across the city.

By 2003 the whole operation, bar, dining room, kitchen and storeroom, still fitted into 60 square metres, so in February 2004 they moved, and the third brother, Javier, joined to run a long bar that quickly drew a demanding crowd while David drove new dishes in the kitchen. The current Laredo on Doctor Castelo, designed with architect friends Joaquín Torres and Rafael Llamazares, opened on 6 June 2012, and soon served more than a hundred diners a day.

Laredo has always been a bar first: any dish and any bottle in the cellar can be ordered at the counter, most plates come as half or full raciones, and a reduced kitchen runs between services, from 16:00 to 20:00. The kitchen's line is simple, traditional cooking with named, traceable produce.

The long carta takes in seafood such as Isla Cristina carabineros and red prawns, clams al ajillo and seasonal quisquillas and coquinas; salads; sharing plates from cecina croquetas, salmorejo with bellota ham and tortillas, including one with Iberian jowl, Comté and fried piparras, to baos, callos and lentils; fish from the market, from sole and turbot to San Pedro and besugo; seasonal mushroom risotto and an arroz de pueblo; and meats including a 45-day aged old-cow chop, pigeon in two textures and a steak tartare.

Miguel's climate-controlled cellar holds French, Spanish, Italian and Portuguese wines, with particular depth in Champagne and Burgundy, and every bottle can be drunk at the bar.