The kitchen is traditional Castilian and madrileña, built on a careful pick of typical products. Specialities include roast suckling pig, the Capitán's chuletada, and grilled meats and fish, alongside dishes like migas de la Lebrijana and tarta de Flandes, with a wine list running past 100 references.

The setting does a lot of the work. According to the restaurant, Calle San Bruno took that name in the 18th century and was earlier known as Calle del Peso de la Harina or Calle del Arcabuz, and Calle de Grafal replaced the old Calle del Azotado in 1747. The cellars below are said to be built from materials of the old city wall, used to raise the neighbouring houses and fill the defensive ditch; the vanished walls and ditches gave their names to the nearby Cava Alta and Cava Baja. Upstairs, the ground floor keeps its old stone-and-brick walls.

Starters include cured meats and aged cheese, migas de la Lebrijana, the 'cebolla del Turco', callos, morcilla, Navarra chistorra, partridge empanada and pickled partridge, northern anchovies, a salt-cod tortilla and house croquetas. Mains centre on cochinillo asado, beef loin and the Capitán's chuletada, with lamb shank, oxtail, monkfish, hake a la bilbaína, baked cod, beans with partridge and baked fideos. Desserts run to tarta de Flandes, rice pudding, pears in wine and sorbets, and the wine list has more than 100 references. The restaurant's site also points diners to Las Cuevas de Luis Candelas and the Posada de la Villa nearby.