Basque and Navarrese, built on the asador tradition and on simple execution of market produce: carefully chosen beef and the freshest Cantabrian fish, surf and turf. The grill runs on holm-oak charcoal, and the house name-checks the legendary Frontón asadores and Miguel Ansorena as its reference.

The entradas are the northern classics: Santoña anchovies in salt, salt-cod brandada, Ibérico ham and loin, a menestra of vegetables with ham, tomato with bonito, garlic prawns, Navarra asparagus, anchovies a la bilbaína, a scramble of prawns and young garlic, croquetas, fish soup and a cheese board. The pastel de puerros, a leek pie with mushroom sauce, is the house classic to order every time, and the chistorra and seasonal dishes like wild mushrooms with fried egg come off the menu.

From the sea, fried hake, a hake cogote for two, hake tail, grilled monkfish and sole, bacalao al pil pil, baby squid in their ink and hake a la vasca, from about €21 to €32. From the land, a 1 kg chuletón of old cow at €69, the house 'Pelotari' cut of 600 g aged beef at €48, a 400 g entrecôte, and sirloin plain or with foie, with chips and piquillo peppers on the side. Desserts include pantxineta with walnut ice cream and hot chocolate, apple tatin and lemon soufflé.

The dining room has the look of a traditional Basque asador, wood furniture, tablecloths and blue and white, with decoration that nods to the pelota game. There are several rooms, two for 15 to 18 people and private rooms for family celebrations and company events of up to about 50. Group menus with drinks cost €80 to €115 a head, and the cellar holds more than 280 references, from Rioja's classics to the house's own picks.