Argentine at heart but not a traditional grill house: sharing plates, a few chosen cuts of beef and vegetables treated with the same fire and technique as the meat, so non-meat-eaters are looked after too. Everything is made in house, with nothing pre-cooked, using a robata, a convection oven and the grill. The fried empanada criolla, of hand-cut beef stewed slowly with olives and tomato, with no egg or potato, is the one to order, and the smoked labneh with spices, green oil and focaccia baked daily has become a signature.

When they took over the café, with its yellow walls, marble and classic wooden chairs, they decided to hide nothing. They scraped the walls back with a spatula rather than painting them, so each wall shows a different colour from the layers underneath, and they kept the floor, the wrought-iron columns and the old owner's chairs. The two dining rooms, a wide bar and the kitchen are laid out as they were. Lights are low, and tables are spaced so you don't hear the next one.

Beyond the empanada and labneh, there's a prawn tartare on crisp polenta, bresaola with grated ricotta, walnuts and a sweet-sour sauce, and a matrimonio of anchovy and boquerón on brioche with dill or green mayonnaise and chimichurri. The sweetbread is slow-cooked and then finished on the robata, crisp outside and soft within. Vegetables have included grilled asparagus with dehydrated Ibérico ham, cured yolk, parmesan and peas, and charred bimi with stracciatella and hazelnuts. There's a cured, sashimi-style trout from Avilés in Asturias. The ojo de bife comes cooked to the Argentine or Spanish point, and the entraña is served as a tataki with a Japanese-style sauce. Beef comes from suppliers such as Grupo Norteños.

The dulce de leche flan with mascarpone cream and cacao is the classic finish, and strawberries with chantilly and cardamom have been on too. To drink there's homemade lemonade, a considered wine list, beer and cocktails. A meal with wine has been put at around €40 a head; an empanada has been listed at €2.20, the asparagus at €14 and the sweetbread at €18.