Southern Italian seafood cooking, Sicilian at heart. Downstairs, Palermo-style tapas and raciones (half or full): caponata with burrata, mussels 'alla palermitana' with San Marzano tomato, vitello tonnato, aubergine and courgette involtini with scamorza, Italian cheeses and cold cuts. The pasta list runs from busiate with Ibérico pork-rib ragù and fusilli alla Norma to pumpkin ravioli with spicy mostarda and amaretti, tagliatelle with seafood al cartoccio and a carbonara with truffle and Ibérico papada. A house speciality is the traditional Sicilian stew of spicy, spiced octopus.

The ground floor is informal, with a big bar, high and low tables and the tapas list, so you can eat well for a reasonable price, from vitello tonnato to a lightly spicy salad of beef trotters, snout and tongue with kalamata olives and orange. Upstairs the carta changes with the season and leans to the sea, often marrying fish and pasta; only full portions are served there. Mains include a breaded 'elephant ear' veal cutlet and beef cheek with peas, mint and mash.

A couple of dishes carry the names of regulars: an 'Emma Suárez' salad of rocket, blue cheese, walnut, apple and kumquat, and a 'Manuel Vicent' carpaccio of wild meagre with Mediterranean prawns, citrus and sesame. There's also a spaghetti and meatballs billed as a homage to Italian-American culture. Ask about the risottos and set menus of the day.

It's open from noon to midnight Monday to Saturday and for Sunday lunch. Book directly on the restaurant's website or by phone on 913 101 618; the terrace carries a 15% supplement. Takeaway orders go through its own online shop.