Castizo Madrid cooking with Mexican and street-food touches. The house signature is the torrezno Antoñita, a whole piece of fresh pork belly baked for six hours for crisp skin and a juicy inside, and slow stews such as callos anchor the menu.

Starters run from an anchovy gilda (€2.50) and the torrezno (€10.50) to six cocido madrileño croquetas coated in panko and crisp noodles (€13.50), and a chicken-thigh pincho moruno grilled over charcoal with house pita and yogurt sauce (€4.50 each). The tacos use nixtamalised corn tortillas: one with crisp marinated pig's ear, brava sauce and pickled piparra, another with a matanza picadillo stewed in sherry, chipotle mayo and a quail egg (€4.80 each). There are also totopos with carved skirt steak, chimichurri and melted mozzarella, and chips topped with mini torreznos. The stews are the heart of it: callos with trotter and snout served with sourdough bread (€14), a brioche filled with pig's-ear stew and adobo chipotles, and gnocchi with braised beef and Parmesan. Burgers range from a 90 g cheese-and-bacon (€11.40) to a double smash with griddled onion (€13.80), with gluten-free buns on request.

Desserts are homemade: a creamy cheesecake with roast pumpkin on a Maria-biscuit base, a chocolate tart made with 80% Guanaja, and a Nutella-filled cookie, all around €6.50 to €6.80, with artisan ice cream on the side. Drinks are kept simple and cheap: Victoria and Turia on draught, including a big Antoñita jug, El Chulapo red vermouth, tinto de verano, Aperol spritz, and a short wine list from Rueda and Rioja to a Valdeorras Godello and a Rheingau Riesling.

Antoñita opens Wednesday to Sunday: lunch 13:00 to 16:00 every open day, dinner 20:00 to 23:00 on Wednesday and Thursday and until midnight on Friday and Saturday, and lunch only on Sunday. It closes Monday and Tuesday. Bookings are taken on its website, and there's an allergen menu on request.