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El Anciano Rey de los Vinos
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Interior with carved-wood mirror frame and arched doorway beneath a green-and-gold painted sign reading 'El Anciano Rey de los Vinos, Casa fundada en 1909'
A roasted red piquillo pepper stuffed and glazed with dark balsamic, held by a wooden skewer over a pool of light sauce on a white plate
Garlic shrimp and noodles in a terracotta dish, topped with chopped parsley.
Fried calamari rings on a plate with lemon wedges and a small dish of garlic sauce.
A wedge of potato tortilla served with a piece of bread on a white plate.

El Anciano Rey de los Vinos

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#476 in MadridRanked #476 of all Madrid restaurants on Guidavera. Click to see the full ranked list./GoodGuidavera tier, our editorial classification combining ratings, accolades, and source consensus across the Madrid dining scene./TapasTapas cuisine: the kitchen's primary culinary tradition and style./€€€€/Centro/

El Anciano Rey de los Vinos is a tavern on Calle Bailén, facing the Almudena Cathedral and the Royal Palace, founded in 1909 when Luis Montón took over an older botillería and began selling his own house wines. The tiles date from 1940, the mirror was rescued from a ruined tavern on Calle Trafalgar, and the terrace looks onto the cathedral and palace. Food is classic Madrid: Cazuela del Anciano, callos, and home-made desserts. It closes on Tuesdays and is one of the city's Comercios Centenarios.

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Background

About El Anciano Rey de los Vinos

The Story

At the end of the 19th century the premises, in an 1886 building at Calle Bailén 19, held Casa Pedro Martínez, which served coffee, aguardiente and tea like other botillerías of its day. In 1909 Pedro Martínez handed it over to Luis Montón, who began selling his own wine brands, 'Viejo', 'Los Viejos' and 'Anciano Rey', and founded the Anciano Rey de los Vinos. The city of Madrid lists it among its Comercios Centenarios, and it holds the Comunidad de Madrid's Establecimiento Centenario designation.

The Cuisine

Traditional Madrid tavern cooking for tapas or a full meal: the Cazuela del Anciano and callos a la madrileña among the mains, and home-made desserts such as chocolate and requesón cake and the house coffee flan.

Montón's Taverns

The one on Bailén was not the only Anciano. Luis Montón ran three more taverns with his own wines, on Calle de la Paz from 1907 and on Fuencarral 105 and Calle Leganitos from 1909. In 1931 the Republic made him take the word 'Rey' off the sign and the tables, and during the Civil War the tavern stayed shut. In 1940 Montón decorated the interior with the tiles still on the walls today. He ran it until 1942, when he passed it to his nephew Abilio Manzanal Ortega; by then only Bailén and Calle de la Paz survived of the four. In 1958, with the bar too busy, Abilio replaced the old walnut counter with a bigger one topped in Bakelite and stainless steel.

The Cortés Family

In 1948 a 15-year-old Constancio Cortés Hernández started work behind the bar. He bought the tavern in the early 1970s and stayed until he retired in 2003. Since then it has been run by his daughter, Belén Cortés Borges, with her husband, Alejandro Casado Manrique. The tavern was extended in 2005 and now has a dining room for 30 alongside the bar and the terrace.

Opposite the Palace

From its spot in front of the Almudena Cathedral and the Royal Palace, the house says, the tavern has watched royal weddings, state funerals and visiting heads of state arrive at the palace. It also tells the story, as legend rather than record, that Alfonso XIII would now and then settle in by the bar, arriving and leaving unseen. The mirror in the room was rescued in 1909 from a ruined tavern on Calle Trafalgar.

Highlights

What Diners Say

CozyClassicWarm ServiceAttentive ServiceTraditionalSharing PlatesNotable ViewTerraceBar

Consensus

El Anciano Rey de los Vinos Ratings & Reviews

Diner Ratings

TripAdvisor

4.1

524 reviews

Google

4.3

3102

#476 in MadridGood

El Anciano Rey de los Vinos ranks #476 of 1001 rated restaurants in Madrid. Diners rate it 4.1/5 on TripAdvisor (524 reviews).

Reservations

How to Book El Anciano Rey de los Vinos

Booking

Book online at covermanager.com (covermanager).

Experience

El Anciano Rey de los Vinos Dining Experience

A classic Madrid tavern with a red façade and red doors, coloured tiles, high ceilings, carved columns and old lamps, plus a bar where some of the staff have worked for more than 40 years. The terrace outside looks onto the Almudena Cathedral and the Royal Palace. A house tradition is a glass of sweet wine with biscuits.

Navigate

El Anciano Rey de los Vinos Location & Neighbourhood

Address

Calle Bailén 19, 28013 Madrid, Spain

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Getting There

El Anciano Rey de los Vinos is at Calle Bailén 19, in Palacio, between the Almudena Cathedral and the Royal Palace on one side and the streets west of Plaza Mayor on the other. Palacio is the grand, historic western edge of the centre, wrapped around the Palacio Real and Plaza de Oriente, with the Teatro Real and the Jardines de Sabatini setting a slower pace.

Nearby

Palacio is the grand, historic western edge of the centre, wrapped around Palacio Real de Madrid and Plaza de Oriente. The eating runs from tavern cooking that has not changed in generations to small rooms doing something quieter and more modern. Teatro Real and Jardines de Sabatini set the pace, which is slower here.

Details

El Anciano Rey de los Vinos Reservations, Hours & Contact

Opening Hours

DayHours
Monday09:30–23:30
TuesdayClosed
Wednesday09:30–23:30
Thursday09:00–23:30
Friday09:30–23:30
Saturday09:30–23:30
Sunday09:30–23:30

El Anciano Rey de los Vinos hours verified 2026-08-10. Contact the restaurant to confirm.

Contact

Good to Know

Founded in 1909; one of the city's Comercios Centenarios and an Establecimiento Centenario of the Comunidad de Madrid
Closed Tuesdays; otherwise from 9:30 (9:00 on Thursday) to 23:30
Terrace facing the Almudena Cathedral and the Royal Palace; dining room for 30
Its own site mentions a February holiday closure, so check before going then
Step-free entrance and seating; cards and contactless accepted

Questions

El Anciano Rey de los Vinos FAQ

Is El Anciano Rey de los Vinos a historic establishment?

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Yes. Luis Montón founded it in 1909 on the site of an older botillería, and the city of Madrid lists it among its Comercios Centenarios, with the Comunidad de Madrid's Establecimiento Centenario designation.

What does El Anciano Rey de los Vinos serve?

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Traditional Madrid tavern cooking in tapas and sharing plates, including the Cazuela del Anciano and callos a la madrileña, with home-made desserts such as the house coffee flan.

When is it open, and where?

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At Calle Bailén 19, in the Palacio barrio of Centro, facing the Almudena Cathedral. Closed Tuesdays; otherwise from 9:30 (9:00 on Thursday) to 23:30.

How much does it cost to eat there?

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Around €26 to €50 per person. Tapas run from patatas bravas at €8.50 up to callos a la madrileña at €17.50, jamón ibérico at €23.50, and solomillo al vino dulce at €25.50.

Does it have a wine list?

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Yes, an extensive one: Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Rueda and other D.O. wines by the glass from around €3.50 or by the bottle from roughly €16.50 up to a €35 Rioja Remelluri Reserva, plus cava and Champagne.

Does it have a terrace?

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Yes, facing the Almudena Cathedral and the Royal Palace, and food is served there as well as at the bar and in the dining room.

Who runs El Anciano Rey de los Vinos?

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Belén Cortés Borges and her husband, Alejandro Casado Manrique. Her father, Constancio Cortés, started behind the bar in 1948, bought the tavern in the early 1970s and retired in 2003.