Taberna raciones with wine. All the charcuterie is acorn-fed ibérico chosen piece by piece: gran reserva ham cured at least four years, gran reserva loin, longaniza, chorizo and salchichón, plus chicharrones made from pig's cheek, a tapa many old tabernas have lost. There's a well-aged cheese whose origin the house keeps secret, the 'Panoli' (palm-length Cantabrian anchovies on red pepper), cecina de León, northern bonito in escabeche, mussels, Ibérico morcilla and ventresca with peppers.

The furniture has stayed original: a bar carved entirely in walnut with wine motifs, marble tables, pewter trays and wine measures, and gas lamps that still hang beside the modern lights. A National cash register is preserved intact, its top figure 6 pesetas.

Reds from Rioja and Ribera del Duero and whites from Rueda go with the charcuterie (Protos, Pittacum, Glárima, Enate, Dominio de Tares among them), with new bottles each week, plus vermouth on tap, Mahou and craft beers from emerging brewers. It opens Monday evening and Tuesday to Saturday for lunch and dinner; call 913 65 26 21 to book, and there are set menus for groups.