Tapas with a modern-creative edge and a wink at the Movida: seasoned tins, oysters, tortilla, bravas, raw and cured fish, and sandwiches, with a Spanish wine list.

Start with tins dressed with one of five house aliños (spicy mayo, Espelette vinaigrette, vine-smoked oil, mojo rojo or fermented-garlic mayo), Victoriano Contreras Ibérico ham or Breton oysters. The tapas run from the Canito tortilla pincho and 'Las Bravas y Los Pegamoides' to grilled lettuce with a chop dressing, piquillos roasted in whisky, a quail-egg ensaladilla, Hawaii Bombay prawns, griddled baby squid, white prawns and cockles. Raw and cured plates include corvina with lime, tuna with miso-cured yolk and an old-cow chop tartare, and the sandwiches are where the Movida jokes come in: a tortilla bocata, a squid 'calamares' roll in homage to La Gabinoteca, a bikini of Ibérico loin, mozzarella and truffle, a solomillo pepito and the 'Qué Movida' burger. Desserts include a mascarpone flan with dulce de leche.

The wine list is short and Spanish, with Madrid garnachas and albillo from Navaherreros and Agrícola de Cadalso alongside Rioja, Ribera, Bierzo mencía, Ribera Sacra godello, a Mallorcan callet and a Champagne. Because nothing is booked, the bar fills in order of arrival and then keeps a waiting list, so turning up outside peak times is the easiest way in.