The noodles are made every day from flour, salt and water, kneaded and pulled to order. Each bowl holds a single noodle about 1.5 to 2 metres long, and the name comes from the slapping sound the dough makes against the counter as it's stretched, written in Chinese with one of the most complicated characters there is. You pick your heat, from suave through medio and picante to picante asiático, and some dishes can be made vegan or low-gluten with konjac noodles.

The Pelayo carta is short. To share: fried cauliflower with ground hazelnut, unagi sauce and spicy mayo (€7.80), a 'naughty duck' spring roll with confit duck, Ibérico ham and bamboo (€4.80 each), and house jiaozi filled with beef and tomato or with pumpkin, carrot and egg (six or ten pieces, from €6.80). The noodles start with Los auténticos Biang Biang, the traditional recipe with pulled and minced Duroc pork, Chinese leek, garlic, vegetables and tomato scrambled egg, and The Original with Yuxiang-style Chinese aubergine and minced pork, both €13.90, alongside a triple-mushroom combo with pak choi (€13.90). Richer bowls bring Ibérico pork with black truffle (€18.90) or king prawn and beef from the wok (€16.80). An extra noodle costs €2, and the one dessert is a salted-caramel and Sichuan-pepper ice cream with candied nuts and fried dough (€6.90); the menu suggests a little chili oil on top.

The market stall has its own menu rather than a copy of Chueca's, and it changes with the seasons and what the neighbouring stands are selling, with off-menu specials for dates such as Chinese New Year. The kitchen is open, so from the bar you can watch the dough being kneaded, pulled and slapped. Recent cartas have run from Langya-style crinkle-cut fries with coriander, garlic, Sichuan pepper, rice vinegar and soy, and a prawn-stuffed Chinese porra, to an eight-treasures bowl with Chinese boletus sauce, peanut, edamame, Heura and tomato egg, the Chueca aubergine noodles, and confit duck with black pepper (€18.90). There are no desserts on purpose: the team sends you to the market's sweet stalls instead. To drink, expect Tsingtao and Mahou, a house Biáng Brew pale ale, Chinese soft drinks and a short list of natural wines.

Chueca opens for lunch and dinner every day except Tuesday and takes reservations through the website. The Vallehermoso stall doesn't book, has about 20 seats and runs on market hours, which its website lists as Tuesday to Thursday 13:30 to 16:15 and 20:30 to 23:00, and Friday and Saturday until midnight. Expect a wait when it's full. There is also a delivery service; details are on the website.