Spanish taberna food with León as the backbone. Because the premises have no smoke extraction, the carta leans on cured meats, conservas and cold dishes, with hot plates from a special oven. Expect cecina, including goat cecina, chacinas and Ibérico, Esla valley beef, pickles, morcilla, Bierzo peppers, Sahagún leeks, La Bañeza beans and conger al ajoarriero, alongside spoon dishes such as chickpeas with callos and lentils with smoked morcilla.

Start with a cecina tasting, since the house serves different cuts so you can taste the difference between babilla, tapa and contra, and the ensaladilla cazurra, which swaps tuna for conger eel, one of León's most traditional fish. Then try the morcilla, Bierzo peppers and the lentils with smoked morcilla and piparras. For dessert, look for the blue-cheese cheesecake. The wine list leans on Bierzo and DO León Prieto Picudo, with nods to Cembranos.

Barrio Húmedo opens Monday and Tuesday evenings from 20:00, Wednesday to Saturday from lunchtime until midnight or later, and Sunday from 13:00 to 17:00; the kitchen keeps shorter hours within those. Book by phone on 915 73 06 15 or online; reservations are for the inside only. It also hosts company meetings and private celebrations.