Traditional Basque, in the venue's own framing: real, unfussy cooking on high-quality produce, organic where it can get it. It lists old-house staples like alubias de Tolosa, seasonal fish, chuleta de vaca vieja and leche frita.

To start there are Ibérico ham croquetas, artisan txistorra, a warm veal sweetbread salad and white Perico asparagus from Navarra. The entradas are the Basque canon: anchovies baked in a green bilbaína, stewed snails in the house sauce, Tolosa red beans, scrambles of salt cod or wild mushrooms, piquillos stuffed with cod, clams a la marinera and leek morcilla with peppers. Fish is the heart of it: hake several ways (Órdago, a la vasca, albardada with peppers, baked), squid stuffed in their ink, txangurro of spider crab a la donostiarra, bacalao al pil pil, and hake kokotxas in pil pil or salsa verde. For two, there's hake tail or cogote a la bilbaína, turbot in its juices, or sea bass a la espalda.

The meat side runs from a chuletón for two and a grilled sirloin to the old-school dishes: battered veal tongue, callos with snout and trotters, a meatball of 100% lomo alto, braised oxtail and lamb's feet a la vizcaína, around €19 to €31. Desserts are the Basque and Spanish classics, smoked Idiazábal cheese, sheep's milk cuajada, a baked spinach puff pastry, cheesecake with red berries, a truffle cake with light custard, rice pudding and leche frita, most at €7.50.

The restaurant stands next to the Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas, and it keeps the feel of the old Basque casas de comidas: elegant but cosy, with close service and a quiet room made for eating without hurry. It works well for groups, and tables are booked online through the restaurant's site.