An asador in the Uruguayan sense, with the grill in view from the bar. The partners raise their own Angus on a farm in Galicia, and add cuts from Uruguay, Argentina, Spain, Australia and the USA. The most-ordered cut is the ojo de bife, the Uruguayan entrecôte, followed by the lomo bajo of their own Galician Angus. The carta also runs to Wagyu cuts, Galician beef aged 40 and 50 days, a Retinta lomo alto, Black Angus Prime from Nebraska and a Chuleta Selección 'Luismi' aged over 120 days, plus day's fish from the Ribeira market in Galicia.

Start with house chorizo criollo, veal sweetbreads, provoleta from the clay oven with fresh oregano, Japanese A5 Wagyu cecina or a carpaccio of aged picanha. Empanadas come from the clay oven, a criolla of hand-cut beef or spinach and feta. Salads are named for Uruguayan places, like the San Ramón and the Garzón, and there's a grilled-cos 'Charrúa' with Caesar dressing and anchovies. Vegetables go on the grill too: artichokes, Japanese aubergine, leeks, sweet potato, Palermo peppers and clay-oven French onions, with chips fried in extra virgin olive oil or a truffled cauliflower purée on the side.

Desserts lean Uruguayan: a dulce de leche volcano, flan, chocolate soufflé, cheesecake, a lemon millefeuille and chajá, the Uruguayan meringue-and-cream cake. The partners make their own wine too, a line called Lágrima in Mendoza and a bottling under the Charrúa name in Spain, alongside a broad Spanish and international list.

The space keeps its original wooden beams and iron columns, played in black and white, with Canadian wood, sheepskins and throws, and candelabras and candles for low light. The smell as you walk in is deliberate: rosemary and vine cuttings are burned for it. The dining room is busy, and tables tend to book up weeks ahead, so plan in advance. Bookings are online or by phone, with a cancellation policy on all reservations.