Beyond the raw fish, Bakko runs gyoza stuffed with cocido madrileño and tonkatsu pork topped with cured egg yolk, and wagyu cuts like picaña, tapa de lomo and sobrecostilla off the grill. Dessert is mochi with fermented strawberries and raspberries. It's built around the omakase, €98 per person on the current carta, alongside à la carte nigiri at lunch.

The omakase moves in chapters. It opens with edamame and a grilled kimchi, then raw dishes such as an oyster with beurre blanc and a gilda, sashimi and trout, and a hot course of gyoza filled with cocido madrileño and topped with cured yolk. The heart of it is ten nigiri from the itamae, which on the full menu run from Hokkaido scallop, Sanlúcar tiger prawn and amaebi with roe to itoika squid with lime, smoked trout, hamachi, katsuo, aged akami, toro with umeshu and eel with cucumber. It finishes with a katsu sando of Iberian rib, Angus striploin off the charcoal and a seasonal dessert.

Off the menu, there are gunkan of Japanese uni or carabinero, temaki of akami and egg or toro and eel, and a nigiri of toro with bone marrow and caviar. The fish comes from Galicia, Cádiz and Japan.

Rosalía Caamaño's list runs past 600 references between sake and wine, and it's serious about bubbles: grower Champagnes from Romain Hénin, Mouzon Leroux, Chavost and Ruppert-Leroy sit beside Mestres and Clos Lentiscus from Penedès and even a Champagne-region cider. Cocktails are by Alberto Villaroel.

The restaurant can be booked in full for up to 24 guests, from €3,000, with a rice demonstration from the itamae and a wine presentation from the sommelier, and a richer 'Omakase a Máximo Dolor' with caviar, carabinero and wagyu. The team also cooks at home, with the itamae and sommelier travelling to the client.