Mediterranean sharing plates with an eastern lean, organised by the three island 'cultures'. Yalmar is the sea: monkfish with mussel vinaigrette and green apple, chipirón with grapefruit beurre blanc and black couscous, grouper in ham broth with muhammara. Ouzalim is slow fire and spice: tershi (roast pumpkin pâté with honey, harissa and za'atar), wild-boar cheek in a Mediterranean curry, Label Rouge quail with date sauce. Valmyra is the garden: patatas a la importancia, grilled artichokes with prawn tartare and ras el hanout, presa ibérica with pomegranate and pickled Moroccan lemon.

Each culture has its own style. The Yalmar cooked the way they sailed, by wind and instinct, so their plates are fresh seafood with light cooking, acidity and smoke. The Ouzalim cook slow and in layers, with roasts, spices, dried herbs and natural sweetness. The Valmyra tend a secret garden, balancing herbs, fine meats and light ferments. Mains run from €14 to €29, and sourdough with black-garlic butter is €2.75 a head. Ukrainian chef Artiom Berdnykov shaped the early menus, with dishes like the tershi and a tandoori monkfish.

The bodega follows the same three-culture logic: light, saline whites and agile reds for the Yalmar, deeper, spiced wines for the Ouzalim. It ranges across the Mediterranean and beyond, from Ribeira Sacra Mencía and Sanlúcar Palomino to Croatian Plavac Mali, a Moroccan Syrah, Greek Mavrodaphne, Cretan Muscat and Sardinian Cannonau, with several by the glass from €4.50.

It's a narrow room of rough walls, high tables and handmade ceramics, seating about 37 inside and 12 on the terrace, where there's a 10% supplement. Dinner runs Tuesday to Saturday from 19:30 and lunch only on Friday and Saturday; book online.