The wood oven does double duty beyond the cochinillo and lamb: torrezno cured in salt and roasted over oak and olive wood, judiones cooked with cured Iberian pork jowl, roasted onion soup finished with French butter and Galician cheese, and morcilla segoviana. Even dessert gets the treatment, a Comté and Stilton cheesecake baked in the same oven, alongside classics like garlic soup and an ensaladilla dressed with quince vinegar.

The family story starts in a typical mesón in Cuatro Caminos, where the brothers' grandparents, Faustino and Primitiva, served wine and food with their sons. In the 1970s their father and mother struck out on their own with a taberna in Chamberí, El Pedrusquito, serving old-Madrid raciones and wine from the skin, and that hard work led to El Pedrusco de Aldealcorvo in 1984. The name comes from a rock some 15 metres high on the edge of Aldealcorvo, the Segovia village where their father was born.

Their father's dream was a Segovian asador in Madrid, so he took apart the oven of his village bakery, more than 100 years old, and rebuilt it here; the family calls it the heart of the restaurant. For years their mother ran the kitchen with the recipes she learned from their grandmother, and their father ran the room. The brothers grew up among the stoves and were working full time with their parents by 16.

Everything turns on the wood-fired oven, fuelled with holm oak, and on stews and roasts in the traditional style, cooked with finesse. El Pedrusco serves only eight tables a day across its two dining rooms, in a single sitting with no second turn, in a rustic room of stone walls and exposed beams. The idea, in the family's words, is that walking in means forgetting the outside world for a while.

The tasting menu is €90, best ordered when you book, with an exclusive wine pairing for €55. It runs from a 00 anchovy with French butter and toasted croissant through judiones cooked in the wood oven under a veil of Ibérico jowl, oven-cooked lentils with melted sobrasada and a pickled piparra, roast torrezno with fried morcilla, heart sweetbreads bound with egg yolk and a griddled terrine of suckling-pig trotter, snout and ear in brava sauce, to callos with trotter and snout and the roast cochinillo. Dessert is two oven-baked tarts, a cheesecake and a cocoa, orange and salt tart.

The cheese board, €18, is chosen by cheese specialist Ana Belén González Pinos: a goat's-milk Brabander from Veenhuizen in the Netherlands, a Servus Manchego from Germany that blends cow's and sheep's milk traditions, a Colston Bassett Stilton from Nottinghamshire and a 20-month Comté made with raw summer milk from the Jura. Antonio's wine list mixes world classics with newer names, built to pair with his brother's cooking.