The menu runs to smoked trout porrusalda with leeks and dill, a steak tartare, croquetas made with lacón, kale and ajada sauce, a surf-and-turf pairing of pork jowl and razor clams, and artichokes with cured egg yolk.

Tramo occupies a 466-square-metre building in Prosperidad that once housed El Garaje Hermético. The design, a collaborative project led by Selgascano and Andreu Carulla, kept interventions to a minimum so that nothing new would outshine the old structure. The space is laid out on several levels, each with its own view, with the kitchen as the visual centre. The roof structure of slender concrete trusses and steel cables, typical of 1950s Madrid architecture and now almost vanished, was rescued and put on show.

Everything else follows bioconstruction: lime mortars, exposed ceramic brick and a cement and anhydrite floor used as the base for underfloor heating. The builders avoided the use-and-throw model, closing circuits during the works so that much of the old garage found a second life, with excavation rubble reused to build the patios and levels and the old roof's polycarbonate sheets reused as well.

Ingredients are chosen with both diners' health and the environment in mind, from small and medium Spanish producers who favour proximity, craft and regenerative farming. Aperitifs include sheep's-milk butter from Fuente Ovejuna, a Cantabrian anchovy with smoked butter, mussels in escabeche and cecina croquettes. Starters run from steak tartare (€19) and sweetbreads with morels and squash to capipota with wild mushrooms, grilled razor clams with pil-pil and citrus, and La Granja judiones with cured corvina and its collagen.

The garden section offers dressed tomatoes in a piparra gazpacho with semi-cured bonito, flame-roasted aubergine with aguamiel and buckwheat, and Pardina lentils with curry. Mains include the trout with smoked porrusalda and dill (€24), a roast tuna galete, a turbot fricandó, Ibérico presa with parsnip and chimichurri, a leg of Ternasco de Aragón, grilled venison with chocolate demiglace and a 45-day-aged chop from 100% pasture-fed Galician cattle at €85 a kilo. Desserts are €7 to €8, among them a goat's-milk flan, and the house sourdough with freshly pressed olive oil is €3.

After more than a year of thinking it through, the team decided to support only wineries that put the environment and biodiversity first, so the list is entirely Spanish and built on regenerative, biodynamic, organic and minimal-intervention wines. By the glass there's Dios Baco manzanilla and fino en rama, Emilio Hidalgo amontillado and oloroso, a Palo Cortado VORS from Bodegas Tradición, and whites and reds from Rueda, Ribeira Sacra, Bierzo, Rioja and Empordà. The list is the work of sommelier Séga Mbengue Diop Diouf, who also runs the wine at sister restaurant Mo de Movimiento and was named in Sommelier Edit's Top 100 Sommeliers España for 2026, his second year running.