Japanese cooking built on carefully chosen raw material: wild fish handled and killed as nobly as possible, shellfish from the fish markets of Marbella, Motril, Huelva and Cádiz, and caviar from Riofrío, with touches of experimentation over a traditional base. The carta changes often enough that it's only shown at the restaurant; alongside it runs the Matsuri tasting menu.

Matsuri, meaning festival, is €105 per person and can be ordered individually or for the whole table; it's built on what the market offers. It opens with an oyster, natural or in panko with ponzu, and a toro tartare with quail-egg yolk and truffle, then a red-prawn sashimi served with its roasted head. A sashimi moriawase follows, with white fish cut usuzukuri style, thin, and six pieces of fatty fish cut hirazukuri, the traditional slice, then six chef's-choice nigiri and a black cod with miso, mangetout and shimeji mushrooms before dessert. An optional course of Japanese wagyu cooked on the robata with fresh wasabi and garlic chips brings it to €135. There's a €2.80 cover, and VAT is included.

The carta, which the restaurant says is subject to change, has included edamame with salt flakes, prawns with kimchi in a very light tempura, a salmon tartare with ikura, wakame and avocado, a spicy tuna tartare, nigiri and temaki, and a chocolate dessert called chokoreto. Ordering from the carta can come in well under the tasting menu; in 2026 a lunch of shared dishes with wine came to about €60 a head.

Ta-kumi Madrid is at Calle de Claudio Coello 114 and opens Tuesday to Saturday, 13:30 to 16:00 and 20:00 to 23:30; it's closed on Sunday and Monday. Book on +34 913 083 711. There's a private room for events.