Southern Italian with a Neapolitan core, built on two things the chef calls non-negotiable: laborious, long-cooked classics such as the Neapolitan ragù and the genovese, and an Italian way of cooking with few, excellent ingredients, short cooking for fish and seafood, and good olive oil. The carta is short, with daily off-menu dishes alongside.

Antipasti run €18 to €25: olive all'ascolana stuffed with three meats and fried, Pugliese burrata with gratinéed peppers, fried skate in escabeche with minted courgette, veal tongue in a yogurt tonnato sauce, mussels alla pescatora, and a parmigiana di melanzane layered with smoked provola and baked in clay. The pastas, €22 to €28, are the heart of it: paccheri with Neapolitan ragù cooked 15 to 18 hours, ziti alla genovese (a Neapolitan stew of caramelised onion and meat cooked for 18 hours), Sardinian fregola with squid ink and raw red-prawn tartare, and handmade ravioli and tortelloni. Mains are €24: rabbit alla ischitana, stuffed with meat and dried fruit, a traditional Sunday dish on the island of Ischia; Ibérico presa with rapini and aged Modena vinegar; and saltimbocca alla romana. Desserts are €8, among them cannoli, a ricotta and pear millefeuille and tiramisù. The sourdough is baked on site.

Wine is treated as part of the meal. With more than 400 grape varieties in Italy, the list sets out to reflect that range at reasonable prices, and the team chooses each bottle, as the chef puts it, after drinking it.