Latin American and Asian cooking fused together, in the restaurant's own words. Chicharrones, gyozas and curried mussels are the specialities it names, and there's a whole section of the carta built around tuna. Both the carta and an allergen sheet are published on its site.

In October 2018 Jaime, Javier and Brayan, who had long careers in Madrid's high-end restaurants, moved to Tarifa to open a restaurant of their own. La Morena Tarifa worked with local produce and Asian and Latin American techniques, and after four successful years on the Cádiz coast they brought the concept back to the capital, opening on Paseo de la Castellana in July 2022, as in Tarifa, in collaboration with Salinas Restauración. The idea, in their own words, is to carry diners from Madrid to Tarifa, and the carta was born in the southern restaurant before travelling north.

A whole section of the carta, 'Pasión por el atún', is given to wild red tuna: a green aguachile with pickles and charred avocado (€28), a tuna ingot with a sauce made from its bones, celeriac cream and lime jelly (€34), an encebollado with potato foam and hondashi (€29), a tuna ossobuco in teriyaki with jasmine rice (€42) and a tataki with roasted ají amarillo cream and tomato chutney (€35).

To share there's a surf-and-turf rice with torreznos, chanterelles and carabineros (€24), a sirloin steak tartare with Korean yukhoe dressing and rocoto, a saam of marinated dogfish, a crisp Russian salad with smoked tuna belly, pork gyozas with Korean barbecue sauce, a katsu sando of braised cheek and artichokes with huancaína and ginger chimichurri. From the sea come fried baby squid with two sauces, cod lacquered in red miso and a hake tempura with red curry; from the land, an oxtail kubak and a skirt steak anticuchera. Desserts include a lemon pie smoked with lemon thyme and the house cheesecake.

The wine list is a real feature, with its own page for Vinos de Madrid: some 40 Madrid bottles, among them Bernabeleva's Carril del Rey, Arroyo de las Tórtolas and Viña Bonita, La Mujer Cañón, El Hombre Bala, Marañones and several from La Danza del Viento. Beyond Madrid it runs from Valenciso and Muga to Alabaster from Toro and Blecua from Somontano, and it has a long vermouth list, with Madrid's La Villa among them, and sherries by the glass from Tío Pepe en Rama to a Noé PX VORS and a 1970 Gran Fondillón from Alicante.

La Morena is at Paseo de la Castellana 210. It opens Tuesday to Thursday from 13:30 to 01:00 and Friday and Saturday to 02:00, and is closed on Sunday and Monday. Book online through its site or call +34 914 243 692; it also hosts events.