Traditional Madrid and Asturian cooking built on carefully sourced produce. Cosmen says the cocido depends above all on the chickpea, and that the callos use large beef tripe, which releases more gelatine and takes longer to cook but has more flavour. The fabada is made with ingredients he brings in from Asturias.

Prices are listed twice, at the bar and at a table. The specialities are the heart of it: cocido madrileño (€27 at the bar, €29 at a table), fabada asturiana (€19/€20), callos a la madrileña (€19/€21), house-cured Santoña anchovies, calamares a la romana, verdinas with lobster and the grandmother's croquetas. To share there's bienmesabe, boquerones en vinagre, grilled prawns, Ibérico ham, lacón, Burgos morcilla, Galician or stone-seared octopus and a slow-roast pork knuckle. Mains include grilled sole and sea bass, rabo de toro, lamb chops by the 700 g and the garlic rabbit with fresh lettuce for two (€32/€33). Desserts are classics such as flan, pudding, cheesecake and carrot cake.

The wine list leans on Ribera del Duero, Rioja and Somontano, with a Bierzo, two Madrid reds from Regajal and Initio, Asturian Cangas de Narcea bottles and Barbadillo sherries by the glass, up to Laurent-Perrier Champagne. Being a cervecería, the beer is as important as the wine. The doors open daily from 08:00 until midnight, and the website lists the restaurant service from 12:00. For cocido and fabada to take away, call ahead and bring your own pot.