Two traditions under one roof. On the Nikkei side the itamae's cut matters, marinades are brief so lime and soy lift rather than transform the fish, and miso, wasabi and ginger meet ají amarillo and rocoto. On the Chifa side it's the heat of the wok: chaufa fried rice, tallarín saltado and sweet-and-sour dishes finished with Chinese cinnamon and soy.

Makis come eight to a plate at about €14 to €15.50: the acebichado with furai prawn, cream cheese and avocado under corvina in acebichada sauce, the Kazán with fried plantain and flamed parmesan, a braised maki with anticuchera mayo, the Parrillero with grilled salmon and ají amarillo, and the Diablada of bluefin with rocoto. Nigiris are €4 each (butterfish with anticuchera sauce, corvina Lima, salmon with rocoto and parmesan, tuna with ají amarillo), there's sashimi of corvina, tarantelo, salmon and butterfish, bao with prawn or char siu belly, and ceviches such as the classic corvina with sweet potato and cancha, the Intruso with prawns and ají amarillo leche de tigre, and the Carretilla with fish chicharrón.

The Chifa side runs from a hearty sopa especial and fried wantan with tamarind to chaufas (the Aeropuerto, named for Lima's Jorge Chávez airport, the Salvaje with chicken, pork and prawn, and the Siéntelo with chorizo, cecina and ripe plantain), chancho with tamarind, lomo saltado, kam lu wantan and crisp chi jau kai chicken, mostly €13 to €23. The Kimase menu, €45 a head for at least two and the whole table, is seven sharing courses with a drink: ceviche, the acebichado maki, two nigiris, the bao, the Salvaje rice and dessert. Cocktails are pisco-based, from a pisco sour and chilcano to the Hugo Tam with aguaymanto, all at €10, and there are Peruvian beers.