Classic Spanish and Mediterranean cooking, traditional and seasonal, with what the house calls honest produce and no shortcuts. The carta is on the venue's own site, and the pricing runs good value.

Small bites open the carta: artisan croquetas of bacon, boletus and salt cod, a lollipop of onion morcilla with honey and mustard, confit artichoke opened into a flower with truffled honey or with Ibérico ham and yolk, braised leek with calçot sauce, white asparagus with hazelnut cream, three gildas, Cantabrian anchovies with draught-vermouth jelly and a lightly smoked sardine. Then come an ensaladilla with red prawn al ajillo, crisp torreznos, a smoked salmon millefeuille with mango, boletus with truffled yolk and grilled octopus. The meats run from beef tournedos and knife-cut steak tartare to a 40-day aged Simmental chuletón, duck confit with orange, the house callos a la madrileña made to the 1987 recipe, and pochas with oxtail. From the sea, confit cod with pil pil, scallops with boletus and foie, tuna belly a la bilbaína and a sea bass tiradito. Many dishes come as half portions.

Every menu starts with draught vermouth and a house aperitivo. There's a vegetarian menu at €47.85, the Menú 2096 at €55 for up to eight, the Menú 1987 at €66 with four starters and your pick of main, and a €88 tasting menu by reservation, all for the whole table and without drinks. The wine list covers Spain region by region, with house wines by the glass from about €4.40, including La Chelo, a Madrid red of Tempranillo, Syrah and Garnacha, plus Ribera classics like Pesquera and Malleolus. Gift cards cover any of the menus.