The current menu runs as a conversation in six themes, Astur-Celta, Cosecha, Revisionismo, Guisos, Fuego and Ritual Dulce, meant as sensations and memories rather than a fixed list of dishes. A communal seafood stew (guiso marinero) is served to the centre of the table, and a fire course brings brasas and smoke, the primitive table where everyone gathers around the heat.

CLOS is the Madrid restaurant of sommelier and hotelier Marcos Granda, opened in Ríos Rosas as his follow-up to Skina in Marbella and built around a serious wine cellar. Its name is the French term for a walled, high-quality wine estate. It opened in 2017 and won its Michelin star the following year, in the 2019 guide. Its most recent chef, Luiggi Crocco, left in 2025, and in December 2025 it relaunched with executive chef Dani Villoria, who spent about fifteen years alongside Dabiz Muñoz, including at DiverXO. Granda also owns Toki, the six-seat sushi counter on Calle de Sagasta. The idea behind the relaunch was to get out of a comfortable routine: the guest chooses, the kitchen is built into the dining room, and hospitality comes first. The room seats around 20.

There is no conventional carta. The menu is a conversation guided by six themes, each meant as a sensation or memory rather than a dish, with a few ingredients listed as clues. Astur-Celta brings Ibérico suckling pig, mussel, brown crab and botillo; Cosecha honours the season with beetroot, asparagus and tomatillo, a vegetable ravioli with prawn, and carabinero with an herb stew; Revisionismo reworks tradition with fabes, rabbit and coconut, and black cod with goose barnacle. The Guiso Marinero, with lobster, oyster and pigeon, is served to the centre of the table; Brasas brings sea bream, a bao and a Galician beef chop from the fire; and the sweet Ritual closes with yogurt and tonka bean, a mooncake and a donut.

The table chooses together between three passages (€139), four (€169) or the full six (€199), VAT included, with matching wine pairings at €70, €109 and €139. Any ingredient you would rather avoid can be swapped. One of the dishes that defined the new menu from the first services is fabes from Tineo with sea urchin, a nod to the Asturian roots Villoria and Granda share.

Every meal starts in the wine cellar, with a welcome, a first bite and a toast, and each step afterwards is decided with the table. The dining room is large, austere and light-filled, opening onto an outdoor garden and the open kitchen, and the restaurant describes kitchen and dining room as being in conversation with you from the first moment.

CLOS is closed on Tuesday and Wednesday. Book through the reservation page on the restaurant's site, by email at reservas@restauranteclosmadrid.es or by phone on +34 910 648 805. It can be hard to book, so reserve ahead.