Avant-garde Japanese, as the group calls it: classic nigiri and sashimi, warm and flamed nigiri, creative makis, tartares and tempuras, with Spanish produce slipped in, from Santoña anchovy to Ibérico pancetta and Arzúa cheese.

Starters run from edamame and 'capumiso', a fermented-soy base with seaweed, truffle and tofu foam, to wild-boar gyozas with caramelised onion, Arzúa cheese and chestnut infusion, gratinéed king crab with wasabi and yuzu tobiko, grilled scallops with ume and mentaiko, miso aubergines, a Japanese tuna pizza and an okonomiyaki. There are seaweed salads, tempuras of oyster with caviar, tiger prawn in a creamy spicy sauce or lobster, and tartares of tuna, kimchi tuna, salmon, horse mackerel and toro with caviar. The makis include a warm crispy-eel roll with brie, a tuna-belly roll with chips, soft-shell crab, a dragon maki, a scallop-topped hotate maki and a Kagoshima Wagyu roll. Nigiri are ordered by the piece, from tuna, butterfish with truffle and hamachi to warm and flamed versions: grilled eel with tare, quail egg with truffle, red prawn two ways, flamed turbot, Wagyu, foie with raspberry and toro with truffle.

For the whole table, minimum two, the tasting menu at €126 a head runs through capumiso, toro tartare with caviar, tuna belly with soy and wasabi, the wild-boar gyozas, tiger prawn tempura, a sequence of nigiri (flamed salmon, butterfish with truffle, a toro-tartare gunkan, warm scallop, smoked Ibérico pancetta with quail egg), a tuna temaki, and Wagyu short rib in saikyo miso with roast aubergine, then dessert and coffee. The group runs other Madrid restaurants on Calle Hermosilla, Padre Damián and in La Moraleja.