Eclectic international and fusion cooking, American-inspired, with the plating a feature alongside the setting. The kitchen runs non-stop through the day, from a casual lunch to dinner, and the carta is a PDF on the venue's own site.

The Palacio de Saldaña's rooms are part of the experience: mosaics, period lamps and paintings on every floor, and in the more private rooms, light filtering in through the round porthole windows of the building's era. The ground floor, with its cocktail bar and DJ, suits a drink or a casual lunch, the upper floors are calmer, and there's a garden plus spaces for private events. Art exhibitions and a house magazine round out the concept.

Starters and raw plates include a bluefin 'sashimi-pizza' with wasabi dressing, a corn soup with smoked scallop aguachile, white-fish ceviche with tangerine and yuca, hamachi tiradito with bergamot ponzu and a hamachi ceviche in coconut tiger's milk. Oak-charcoal skewers bring beef sweetbreads with hollandaise and Galician octopus, and there are tacos of pork shoulder, sirloin or Andalusian-style fish. To share: an ensaladilla with tuna belly, Ibérico ham croquetas, 'dynamite' guacamole with pork rinds, Madrid-style callos, miso-cod fritters, a torched Kagoshima A5 Wagyu salad and a free-range egg omelette with caviar and red prawn. Mains run from creamy Wagyu and shiitake rice and a morel pizza to hook-caught baby squid, grilled turbot with pil-pil, a glazed beef rib, an Angus milanese with Majorero cheese, a spatchcocked organic coquelet and Scottish Aberdeen Angus cuts up to a one-kilo T-bone for three or four.