Traditional cooking built on the best seasonal produce, with the chef's own touches: Madrid classics and recipes from other Spanish regions, market buying, escabeches, rice dishes and game. The carta is on the venue's own site.

Starters on the current carta run €14 to €25: bellota ham from Guijuelo, an ensaladilla with Almadraba red-tuna tartare, Ibérico ham croquetas, foie mi-cuit with brandied figs, a partridge pâté en croûte 'a la Carolina', a torrezno with patatas revolconas, the 'matrimonio' of boquerón and anchovy, a tomato tart with gazpacho, and a katsu sando of slow-cooked wild boar rib with Korean barbecue sauce. Rice dishes, for two or more, are €22 a head: Bresse pigeon, seasonal, or red prawn. Fish runs from cod al pil-pil with roast peppers to red mullet with curry noodles and pak choi, plus a whole sea bass a la espalda for two (€48). Meat includes a beef steak tartare with brioche and chips, wild duck with a 'false ravioli' of its legs, Madrid-style callos, and the house speciality, a venison pithivier for two (€40). A €46 group menu is served to the whole table and is required for tables of more than eight.

It's a drive out from the centre, but the reward is quiet: tables under the trees, a wide view back towards the city and room for events of around 200 people. Lunch runs every day, with dinner Tuesday to Saturday, and the sunset dinner service is when the terrace is at its best. Book ahead at weekends, when the non-member access ticket also requires a reservation.